Superba Knitting: Weight Distribution For Superba Double Bed Knitting Machines

Greetings!

A very happy New Year to one and all. My thanks for the good wishes that I continue to receive from far and wide about my health. I continue to be in remission and I count myself to be a very lucky individual.

On the machine knitting front I was recently in possession of a digital video camera to make some video instructions for the website. Unfortunately the camera did not come with any software for a MAC nor a proper cord (Firewire to USB) to upload to iMovie and I could not justify the expense of purchasing this right now so that project is on hold for the time being. I am bound and determined to get some video instruction made for this website and You Tube. Just not today.


Purplicious Project


To help lift the spirits and dissipate my frustration with technology I have moved on to some colour therapy and sorted through some of my yarn stash; organizing and grouping by colour, pondering textures and taking a mental stock of what exactly I do have in the way of fibre and thinking about the direction I want to go as far as projects are concerned. Plenty of ideas to sift through!



Having worked at my local yarn shop for a number of years, I have collected a fair number of single skeins/balls of yarn in all varieties of fibres and colours. Some are samples from yarn companies but the majority are single skeins I purchased to sample and consider.




I have a few fans of the colour Purple in my life (you know who you are) and I think that after grouping these yarns by colour that many of these would be well suited to a Weave Effect project. There is enough here for a jacket or a couple of Wraps/Stoles. I'm thinking I want to keep this as simple as possible and just get it done but we shall see where inspiration takes me.



It's not like I am working to a deadline or anything. In all honesty I still go around walking on egg shells 90% of the time, waiting for the sky to fall. I am a positive thinker but you never know the curve balls life will throw your way. Which is a great motivator!



So I'll update you on the progress of this Purplicious Project shortly.



Franklin by Jane Ellison.


About a year ago I started work on Franklin - the cardigan pictured above and featured in Queensland Collection Book no. 9, designed by Jane Ellison.

The yarn I chose to make this model is Zara by Filatura di Crosa, a super-soft Australian Merino, spun and dyed in Italy. I go on and on about this yarn and with good reason. It's wonderful. Soft, warm, cozy, easy to wash, great stitch definition and it knits beautifully on a Superba.

I had coveted this cardigan since the book was released in the fall of 2008. I know it's just a fitted ribbed sweater but knitwear patterns like this have been scarce for those of us who like to make our own clothing, and that are styled and have a fit that appeals to a certain aesthetic. Jane Ellison did a great job with this book.

The Particulars . . . .

Pattern: Franklin by Jane Ellison


Book: Queensland Collection no.9 by Jane Ellison

Available from your local yarn shop. I purchased mine at The Purple Purl in Toronto.


Knitting Machine Model in Photos: Superba S48.


*Note: this garment can be worked on any model of Superba, Singer, White or Phildar double bed knitting machine made in France. Electronic needle selection is not used for this stitch technique.



Bed Space Setting: no. 4 ~ the adjustment of the spacing of the needle beds is exclusive to Superba knitting machines.

Flow Combs: Opposite.


Yarn: Filatura di Crosa ZARA

• 125 m/136.5 yds per 50g or 1.75 oz ball
• 100 % Extra Fine Merino Superwash Wool
  

Yarn Quantity: 14 balls. 1 ball dedicated for working the Gauge Swatch.


Since I used a hand knitting yarn that is put up in 50g balls, I wound these into Mini Cones so that they feed into the machine easier.

Click here for my photo tutorial on winding Mini Cones.





Gauge Swatch:
The Gauge Swatch I worked over 70 stitches: needles 35L - 0 - 35R on the Needle Scale.

Looking at the photo of the swatch below, you can see that I also practiced working the Fully Fashioned Decreases that are used in the pattern for the shaping of the Raglan seams.

This Gauge swatch was knit, washed by hand with a touch of Eucalan wool wash, allowed to dry flat and then lightly steamed with a damp cloth and my steam iron.


I matched the Gauge listed for the garment pattern, so I am working the instructions right from the book. The only modification I made to the garment pattern dimensions was to add 3/4 to the sleeve length as I have long arms and want to ensure this is the right proportion on me when completed.

Stitch Size: Setting no. 11 on both carriages.

Stitch Key: Stocking Stitch or the "V" Key, both carriages.

NRB's or Needle Return Buttons: Down, both carriages.


Pushing Down Wheels aka PD Wheels: These accessories are exclusive to Superba Double Bed models for working with yarns that fall into the heavier- thicker range for this gauge of home knitting machine.





Cast On Technique: Worked on the Front Bed. I began with a few rows of Waste Yarn (WY), then 1 row of a Ravel Cord (RC). Then using the Main Yarn (MY) I worked a Double e-Wrap Cast-On which looks exactly like the "Long Tail Cast On" used by hand knitters.





Stitch Pattern: 2x2 Rib aka Knit 2 ~ Purl 2 Rib. Once I completed the Cast On technique, I transferred stitches to set up for a true Knit 2 ~ Purl 2 rib stitch.


I worked the "knit" stitches on the Front Needle Bed and the "purl" stitches on the Back Needle Bed. Why? So that I did not have to reverse all the garment shaping instructions. The "right side" or public side of my knit fabric faced me as it descended from the needle bed. And a gorgeous, spongy fabric it is! I can't wait to wear this.





Weight Distribution:
I get asked about the topic of Weight Distribution frequently in emails I receive, so I thought I would devote some time in this post to talking about the use of weights on a home knitting machine.

Particularly when it comes to working double bed fabrics like I am doing with this current project.

This information is intended for new or returning machine knitters.



The subject of adjusting the Weights and Cast On Comb is something that one never reads about in any detail in articles or manuals, nor is this topic mentioned in any online tutorials. Not any that I have come across. You will be vaguely instructed to "Insert the comb, hang the weights and continue knitting...."

Well hold on a moment! There's a bit more to the process than that oversimplification.


If you are lucky enough to own a Superba Knitting Machine you have the ability to work with a broad range of yarn fibres and yarn weights, from very fine Lace Weight yarn to medium weight hand knitting yarns like I am using for the Franklin Cardigan.



For the Franklin Cardigan and the 2x2 ribbed stitch technique, I began my knitting as always by establishing stitches aka Casting On using a Superba "Cast On Comb" and using the Medium sized weights that came with my knitting machine.



As the knitting progressed I also used various "Single Bed Cast On Combs", "Hanger Combs" and smaller "Edge Weights" that came from other brands of knitting machines I own. I know, shocking isn't it! Why do I use these extra tools from different machines? Because they work!

I have learned from my personal knitting experience that these additional accessories - which are widely available - make the knitting process go smoothly and are well suited for ensuring that the stitches on my machine are formed evenly and consistently. Especially Edge Stitches.

Note: This isn't a concern every time you knit on your machine, but it does happen. So I would like to show you the tools I use to minimize Dropped Stitches and stretching your knit fabric.


As you develop your machine knitting skills you will learn how to work shaping techniques directly on the knitting machine. As garment shaping takes place you increase or decrease the number of stitches on your knitting machine. Therefore you must also increase or decrease the number of weights and the distribution of this weight across your knit fabric.



It is figuring out how and when to adjust the distribution of weights for the yarn you are working with that takes some practice and time to finesse. That is why you begin by working sample size swatches using your chosen yarn and stitch technique.


This includes practicing new Stitch Techniques and then practicing working some shaping so you get a feel for when and where to add or remove Weights to your fabric so it will be formed evenly and consistently. Just like I had to do when I worked the hand transferred lace pictured above.

This technique involves transferring stitches from one needle to another to create this delicate, open fabric, but it also requires transferring stitches to create shaping. It was a fun challenge that worked very well on my Superba.

I advocate Superba knitting machines as it is my personal experience that for a single gauge of knitting machine (5mm) ~ Superba's knit the widest range of hand knitting and industrial yarns compared to any other brand of home knitting machine. And I've worked on them all.


Just as with hand knitting, for machine knitting we have to experiment and determine the appropriate Stitch Size setting and the number of Weights to use for each yarn we work with.


So let me segue from the Franklin Cardigan project and explain to you in more detail what you can expect to happen to your knit fabric as you start knitting on your machine. I will also show you which additional accessories I like to use and how to manage the distribution of Weights when working on a home knitting machine.

The opinions expressed here are mine and I encourage new machine knitters to be fearless, but also organized in your approach to learning how to operate and make garments on your Superba knitting machine.



The Hourglass Effect.
One of the first projects you will probably make as a machine knitter is a scarf, shawl or blanket. Essentially a large rectangle.

Knit fabric coming off the needles on your knitting machine wants to contract in shape as the "tension" placed on the edge stitches by the comb and weights is reduced. I call this the "Hourglass Effect".


The Hourglass Effect happens with all stitch techniques, regardless of whether they are worked on a single bed of needles or a double bed stitch technique. This happens with all fibres and to all stitch techniques you will work on your double bed knitting machine. To varying degrees of course - but it happens none the less. And this happens on all brands of home knitting machine - even on a Passap. :)

Have a look at some examples of the Hourglass Effect from from various projects I worked on my Superba Double Bed Knitting Machine.

First I have a black Silk & Mohair yarn worked on both needle beds in a Knit 2 ~ Purl 2 stitch technique. My hand is showing where the Hourglass Effect is taking place. You can see the difference in the width of the fabric in the middle compared to the bottom along the Cast On Comb and at the top towards the machine needles.


Next is a fine Cotton/Nylon cone yarn, what a hand knitter would classify as a Lace Weight Yarn . . .


The same yarn worked in a 2x2 rib double bed stitch technique . . .


And the resulting Hourglass Effect as the knit fabric descends off the needles. . .


Theses photos show how extreme the Houglass Effect can get with some yarn/stitch combinations. Once again, note the difference in width of the stitches on the Cast On Comb at the bottom and the stitches still on the machine needles. Pretty extreme.


So understand what's happening to your fabric as you knit on a Double Bed Knitting machine:

The stitches in the centre (No. 1) of your work are linked to one another and the tension on these stitches created by the Cast On Comb and Weights is distributed consistently to neighboring stitches across the width of the fabric in all directions. Easy enough.


But the edge stitches (No. 2) are not linked to another stitch on one side. It is this lack of tension along one edge that causes the fabric to contract. The stitches get all limp as they are no longer under any tension. This is the Hourglass Effect.

This will begin to happen immediately after knitting your first row or two after Casting On stitches. It is this lack of tension on the edge stitches which may cause these stitches to not form properly or be dropped from the needles altogether.


To minimize the chance of this happening, in machine knitting we use Edge Weights.


Edge Weights for Machine Knitting.


Your Superba Double Bed Knitting Machine comes with two rectangular edge weights and they will look like one of these two styles shown below:

• Plastic Coated Metal Edge Weights with long plastic teeth to grip the knit fabric.
  

• or they will be Solid Metal Edge Weights with short metal teeth to grip the knit fabric.
  

Superba Edge weights can be used for both Single Bed and Double Bed stitch techniques. My preference is to use them for Single Bed stitches only.


For Single Bed Stitches like Stocking Stitch, Tuck, Slip, Fair Isle or Weave Effect, you will lower the Front Needle Bed and attach the Superba Edge Weights directly to the edges of your knitting, just below the Flow Combs and Needles. . .





You will then raise the Front Bed back up to Working Position and resume knitting.


As you knit you are advised to move the Edge Weights up on a regular basis, every 20 rows or so. This depends on the yarn and stitch technique you are using. This helps the edge stitches form consistently and evenly.

On a Superba it just takes a moment to lower the Front Bed, move up the Edge Weights, raise the front bed again and resume knitting. These machines are very light weight compared to other home knitting machines.


To recap: Once you begin knitting, even with the use of these Edge Weights, the Hourglass Effect will take effect. Use of these Edge Weights helps to minimize the chance of skipped or dropped stitches along the edges of your knitting.



Note: On a Superba Double Bed Knitting Machine, when working wide pieces across the full width of the machine bed, pay attention to the Racking Lever mechanism on the left end of your machine and the Front Bed Guide on the right end frame, both outlined in Red below.

Due to the compact design of these knitting machines, the space under and between the needle beds gets a bit tight towards the edges. So just pay attention and check with your hand that both the Cast On Comb and any Edge Weights you are using in these areas do not get caught on either side of the machine when knitting.


Personal Opinion: I have found that the teeth on the Superba Edge Weights that are completely metal are a bit short for my liking and do not always grip the knit fabric as firmly as I would prefer. They can easily fall off, especially on knit fabrics that are denser or when using thicker yarns. So watch your toes when working with these!


Also, when using the Superba Edge Weights I have found that when working with finer yarns, these edge weights are sometimes too heavy and will stretch and distort the edge of the knit fabric.


Being the heretic that I am, and having more than one brand of home knitting machine in my collection, I have resorted to using Edge Weights from my Japanese Silver Reed knitting machines. These work in the same way, only are smaller is size and lighter in weight. It's all about options!

To some of you reading this post it may seem like the obvious thing to do. But I receive many email inquiries from knitters seeking permission to do this. It's as if they feel the Knitting Police will descend upon them and confiscate their yarn and knitting machine if they cross over to the dark side and use accessories from other brands of home knitting machines. Nonsense! Permission granted. I do it all the time!




In these photos I am using the Claw Weights from a Silver Reed knitting machine with a Single Bed Tuck Stitch on my Superba S48 model knitting machine.

FYI: The stitch pattern is A7 from a series of automatic built-in stitches.



The Cast On Comb and Weights perform splendid exerting just enough tension across the width of knitting.


As I worked more and more rows I knew to stop and inspect my knitting. I could see the Hourglass Effect happening with this yarn and stitch ~ so I hung a Claw Weight to minimize the chance of stitches skipping or dropping along the edges.


Using the Edge Weights ensures the edge stitches will tuck and knit properly according to the stitch pattern.





Claw Weights work great for all thicknesses of yarn and stitch techniques. This is due to the length and shape of the metal teeth. Below I am using these Edge Weights for Stocking Stitch technique, worked on the Back Needle Bed and the yarn is Berroco Ultra Alpaca.



Edge Weights & Garter Stitch:

In these next photos I am using these Claw Weights for working Garter Stitch with the Ultra Alpaca.


Garter Stitch on a Superba Double Bed Knitting Machine is achieved by transferring stitches back and forth between the front and back needle beds using the Superba Garter Transfer Carriage.



To achieve success with this accessory requires a fair amount of practice, as one of the crucial points to getting the Transfer Carriage to work is the correct Weight distribution for the yarn you are using, including the use of Edge Weights.


I will tell you that this can be challenging when you first learn to use this accessory but it does a marvelous job when you figure out how much or little Weight to use.


As a machine knitter you will develop a preference for certain tools and accessories. You will have your favourites. Some accessories are better suited to particular yarns and stitches. I thought I would share with you some additional favourite accessories I use that come from other brands of home knitting machines. These accessories are widely available from knitting machine retailers and make your knitting go smoother.



Hanger Combs:
For Double Bed Stitches like 1x1 Rib, 2x2 Rib, Full Needle Rib, Jacquard or Tuck Rib fabrics, I like to use the Hanger Combs and the small size weights from my Silver Reed model SRP-50 Ribber instead of the Superba edge weights.

I find these Hanger Combs to provide better weight distribution along the edge of my knitting for Double Bed fabrics.

Below is the set that came with my Brother KH-260 Chunky Knitting Machine. The shape is slightly different, the metal slightly thicker but they work just fine on the Superba. These are also widely available as parts from various knitting machine retailers and on eBay.


I generally begin using Hanger Combs after knitting about 10 rows and I move them up consistently every 10-20 rows. This depends on the knitting I'm doing, the yarn and the stitch technique but I never knit without them. I used these for all sections of the Franklin Cardigan.

To use you these, bring the Hanger Comb up between the needle beds and then over and along the edge stitches on each end of the machine.


Then suspend a small weight from the end. Slowly work the next row of knitting over the Hanger Combs and continue along.


Some close-up shots of the Hanger Combs in action as I decreased the Raglan Shaping for the Franklin Cardigan back section. . . .


I worked the decreases, knit the required number of rows between, worked some more decreases, stopped to feel the tension on the fabric and moved these Hanger Combs and Weights up at regular intervals. Once you begin to use them you will develop a rhythm for moving them and will come to depend on them for helping to make your machine knitting go smoothly.



Hanger Combs for Full Needle Rib:
Another popular double bed knitting stitch is Full Needle Rib. This is where you have all needles on both needle beds selected to knit and the Flow Combs on your Superba set to the "Alternate" setting so the needles on each bed do not collide, but slide between one another.

Full Needle Rib is in essence a very dense Knit 1 ~ Purl 1 stitch technique and is generally meant to be worked with finer thicknesses of yarn. This is also the same needle formation when working Double Bed Jacquard.


I always use these Hanger Combs when working Full Needle Rib stitches. They ensure that the Hourglass Effect will not impede the formation of stitches. Have a look.


With this project the Full Needle Rib stitch is worked beginning with several rows of Waste Yarn knitting, 1 round of Ravel Cord and then I Cast On over this using two strands of the Main Yarn. You can see from this and the following photo the Hourglass Effect happening.


Tip: A quick and easy test to check the consistency of the Weight distribution across your knitting is to put your hand up between the needle beds and run your fingers against the knit fabric that is descending from the machine needles. Your fingers will instantly identify any areas which need more Weights. I do this constantly while knitting.

For this particular sample I wrote down that I worked about 56 rows before needing to add Hanger Combs and a Small Silver Reed Weight, as shown below.



When attaching and moving up the Hanger Combs, I leave the small weights on. These small combs are easy to remove from the knit fabric.



When you lay the comb wire across your stitches, just take care not to move your Knitting Machine Carriages too quickly across the Hanger Comb as it sits on your stitches. You don't want to take the chance that one may raise up and jam your Carriage.


Just as with the 2x2 Rib stitch, you bring the Hanger Comb up between both needle beds, lay it fully across your edge stitches, and continue knitting.


If I was working Double Bed Jacquard stitch technique, I would add these on the second row of my work and move them up every 10 rows of knitting.


Triangle Combs:
In tandem with the Hanger Combs, I like using Triangle Combs which are sold from knitting machine retailers in sets of three.


Triangle Combs are great for maintaining weight along the edges of fabric regardless of the stitch technique . . .



Triangle Combs work very well when you decrease the number of stitches you are working with down to a narrow number of needles, like I did when working the Raglan Shaping on the cardigan fronts and sleeves.


In these photos below I am working the Collar section of a coat. The Collar is worked up and out of the shoulder line on this front section, to be sewn along the back neck after joining the shoulders.

I have just bound off all the shoulder stitches and therefore have reduced the number of working needles from around 70 to about 35. So rather than reinserting a Cast On Comb through this smaller number of stitches, I use a Triangle comb and hang one Medium Superba Weight from this. I then continue knitting in Full Needle Rib the length of the Collar.


With the Collar complete, I transferred all the Front Bed Stitches to the Back Bed in preparation to Cast Off (remove) these stitches from the needle bed. The Triangle Comb holds everything in place and does not distort my knit fabric in the process.


The Triangle Combs are so handy for any stitch technique. I find them invaluable for working with my Superba Garter Transfer Carriage accessory. They help keep a consistent weight over a wider number of stitches, especially along the edges of your knit fabric.


Triangle Combs are easily positioned anywhere as you need them as you can see in this photo when I was working a block stitch in contrasting Knit and Purl stitches, worked using the Superba Garter Transfer Carriage.


The last optional accessory I want to show you comes from Brother Single Bed knitting machines. It is their Cast On Comb. For use on a Superba?!? Why???

What To Do When The Superba Cast On Comb Reaches The Floor?

This is probably the second most commonly asked question I receive after "How Do I Cast On".

When you begin knitting, the Superba Cast On Comb will descend between the needle beds, bringing your knit fabric down with it as more rows are worked.


If you are working longer pieces of knitting the weights will start to touch down on the floor and all of a sudden there is no more tension on your stitches! Uh-oh?!?! What do you do now???


Brother Single Bed Cast On Combs:
Once the knit fabric reaches a certain length ~ usually about 20" or 50cm ~ I then add a Brother Cast On Comb to the fabric above my Superba Cast On Comb, transfer the weights and then remove the original Superba Cast On Comb. You see one in the photo below with the Hanger Combs and Triangle Combs.

Let me show you in detail.


Brother Cast On Combs were sold with Brother Single Bed model knitting machines.

The next obvious question will be "Where Do I Buy One?"

FYI: I have a Brother KH-260 and use the Cast On Combs from this model. I also bought additional Brother Cast On Combs from a great knitting machine dealer on ebay Canada named BrassAnchor. I've been dealing with Sherri for years and she gives great service. Contact Sherri directly for information on availability.

I have more than one of this style of Brother Cast On Comb - about 5 in various widths.



They have metal teeth that protrude like little fingers and grip the knit fabric. Perfect for our needs. Be cautious though as it's easy to snag your knitting with these.


Here is how I attach them to the knit fabric.




1. Choose the appropriate width of comb to use for your knitting as you want this to grip the full width of your fabric for consistent results. . .





2. Once I have the new comb lined up I tip it forward slightly then run my hand along the teeth to help push them into the knit fabric and grip . . .


3. Hold your hand under Centre "0" on the graduated scale and tug down on the new comb to create tension and ensure the comb is attached to the knit fabric . . . .



4. Then, one by one and starting with the centre of your knitting, move the medium weights up to this new comb . . .



For the Franklin Cardigan project, three Superba medium weights are sufficient. . .


5. Verify that the knit fabric above this new Comb is under tension consistently all the way across your knitting. You don't want any gaps or pockets of loose stitches, otherwise you may get drop stitches when you start knitting. Your fingers will tell you instantly if this is the case, and then you can just tug down on the fabric below to snug it up on the comb. I just run my fingers back and forth just above the teeth of the comb as shown below. Easy and quick to do.


6. Once the new comb is in place and balanced I can then remove the Superba Cast On Comb from the bottom of my knit fabric. . .


Note: Always replace the wire in the Cast On Comb and put it where it will not drop or be stepped on. You can see my comb below is pretty beat up - but it still works.

Once the old comb is removed you will immediately see the knit fabric raise up from the floor ~ and you'll get an idea of just how much stretch the weights were putting on your knitting. Of course with elastic fibres like Merino Wool, they will retain their shape and knit to the correct length with no worries.


As my knitting continues to lengthen, I just add an additional Brother Comb, repeating the same process as above. Be cautious though when removing these combs with their protruding "teeth" as they can easily snag a ply of yarn and cause an unexpected bought of profanity.



These next photos are of the Plaited Jacquard technique exclusive to Superba Knitting Machines. I was knitting some yardage with left over yarn and you can see how you can use the Cast On Comb and the Triangle Combs in tandem.



Preventing Unnecessary Stretch:
As a rule I no longer let my knitting get so long as shown in some of the previous photos. I admit to getting carried away with my knitting sometimes and forgetting to move my weights up, but never to these extremes - and certainly not to the floor. Not anymore. Why?
S-T-R-E-T-C-H.

I don't like to stretch my knitting out too much as it descends from the machine. Letting the knit fabric with Weights attached reach the floor only increases the risk of the fabric stretching out of shape, especially with fibres that have a lot of drape like Silk, Rayon and Alpaca and Acrylics.

These photos feature a Knit 2 ~ Purl 2 Ribbed stitch technique I worked using a hand-dyed Mohair/Silk yarn. The yarn is "Kid Silk 2Ply" by Fleece Artists of Nova Scotia. This yarn is classified as a "Double Knitting" or "DK" weight of hand knitting yarn. If you were to knit with this by hand you would be using about a 4mm or US#6 knitting needle.

This next photo shows my hand behind the knit fabric as it is on the machine. See how open the fabric is? The knitting is stretched both vertically and horizontally. This is what we do to our beautiful fibres when working on a home knitting machine. We distort and stretch the heck out of them.

This next photo shows the "after" shot of this same 2x2 ribbed fabric in it's relaxed form, removed from the machine. You can't see my fingers through the fabric. The stitches in combination with the fibre content of the yarn really contract.

The sheen you are seeing in the photo is the Silk content reflecting the light. Silk fibres love to really s-t-r-e-t-c-h! As this yarn is 50% Mohair, the Mohair fibre helps minimize the stretch factor of the Silk. But one has to be cautious as to the amount of weights used and the length of time they are hanging on the knit fabric.

I knit two garments in a row, using this exact same yarn. The first garment came out perfect. The second garment was 4" longer when I removed the knitting from the machine. What happened? Stretch. I left the second garment on the machine with the weights far longer than the first model. The combination of the Silk fibre content and the Weights stretched the fabric that much. Lesson learned.

Another common question . . .

Leaving Knitting Overnight On Your Superba Knitting Machine:
When I still have a project on my knitting machine and I wish to leave it overnight or come back to it later in the day, I do the following so I don't stretch out my knit fabric.

1. I make a note of where I am in the pattern I am using, and I note the row and Carriage settings.

2. Use your Needle Selector and bring all working needles on each bed to Holding Position no.3 . . . .


On a Superba this is the highest position on the needle bed, with the butts of the needles up against the Upper Slide Rail as shown in these photos. . .



3. With all needles on both beds in Holding Position you can safely remove all your weights, edge weights and the Cast On Comb from your knitting. . . .



This will prevent any unnecessary stretching of the knit fabric while you are away from your machine.

4. If your knit fabric is especially long, or delicate for that matter you can raise it up onto a stool or chair to prevent further drag by the weight of the knitting.



5. When you are ready to resume your knitting, you will re-hang your Weights, thread the Carriage and return the needles by hand to Working Position no.1 using a transfer tool for stitches using Electronic Needle Selection . . .


Or by setting the Needle Return Buttons set to the lower position for manual stitch techniques like I did with this 2x2 rib stitch.


Tip: Don't forget to stop and give you machine a little oil and clean off any broken down gunk with an old t-shirt.





Back In The Saddle:
Before getting side swiped by illness last April, I had completed the Back and Left Front of the Franklin Cardigan. So a couple of days ago I got back in the saddle and finished the Right Front and both Sleeves. It felt good to accomplish completing the body sections. I darned in all the yarn ends yesterday and this morning I finally found my blocking wires so I can wash and block this. Then it's onto finishing the zipper insertion and collar.


I love the fully fashioned decreases used for this Raglan shaping. Fully Fashioned Decreases take place anywhere from 2 - 6 stitches in from the edge of your knitting. In your instruction manual this is referred to as the "Italian Decrease".

The Zara yarn knit like a dream. I used my Superba S48 to work this garment. No electronics were used so any Superba, Singer, White or Phildar Double Bed knitting machine can work this pattern.

The garment sections came off the machine the correct length and width so no adverse effects to using weights when machine knitting. Not with this yarn.

And I must chime in here about getting what you pay for when it comes to purchasing yarn to knit with. I have nothing against acrylic, nylon, rayon or any other man-made fibre - as long as it's good quality. There are many of you reading this blog that, for whatever reason, cannot wear animal fibres. You may have allergies or live in a more temperate region of the world than I do. Fine and lucky you!!! But take care when buying fibre for your projects. Look for and stick to quality yarns that prove themselves over and over.



Here are a few more shots of the Zara in true Knit 2 ~ Purl 2 rib with fully fashioned raglan shaping. . . .






I will continue in my next post with information of the Finishing of the Franklin Cardigan and show you other projects I am planning.

I hope you found the information presented here useful and informative.

Take care for now and happy knitting!

Kind Regards.

Patrick Madden
www.superbaknitting.com
Toronto, Ontario CANADA
©2004-2010

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