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Knitting Machines Abbreviations for SUPERBA, SINGER, PHILDAR and WHITE Brand Knitting Machines.


In this post I provide a summary of common Knitting Machine Terms and Abbreviations for owners of Superba Double Bed Knitting Machines.

I use a form of shorthand when writing my own patterns or for taking notes when working on a published pattern from a book or magazine. This can consist of both symbols and abbreviated words, influenced by years of following knitting patterns published for Japanese knitting machines like Studio, Knitmaster, Singer, Silver Reed and the Knit King, Jones, Brother knitting machines. Also, hand knitting references make their way in to my instructions.

For those of you new to knitting on a Superba Knitting Machine, you will undoubtedly encounter knitting patterns written from the perspective of the Japanese brand machines, the Swiss Passap system and you will find patterns written for Singer/Superba machines in publications from the United Kingdom, Germany and France.

As you work your way through these patterns or charts, you may find it confusing to understand the abbreviations and symbols used or how they translate to your Superba Knitting Machine. I have taken the liberty of creating this list of common Machine Knitting Abbreviations to help Superba Knitting Machine owners decipher this coded language when you encounter it.

You may download and print a copy of this off of the Yahoo SuperbaWhite Group. The file format is Adobe pdf. Here is the link to the SuperbaWhite group. You must join this group before you can access this document.

For those of you not computer or web savvy, I am presenting it in it's entirety for your viewing pleasure here on my weblog. I know a few references/terms found their way into this abbreviation list but I felt it necessary to include them for clarification.

**NOTE: Abbreviations may have more than one term or reference. How this translates specifically to a Superba Knitting Machine is printed below each term in BOLD type. Depending on the way the pattern is written and where the symbol/abbreviation appears in the pattern will determine the context in which it is used.

This is just the beginning of this list. I will update and add information to translate Passap knitting machine terms as time allows.

I am also working on a Glossary of knitting terms for Superba knitting machines as well as compiling a list of Japanese Machine Knitting Symbols for those of you interested in creating detailed double bed and lace stitches by hand. This should be available shortly.

If you care to contribute something, or wish to see anything added, please email me or post it on the Yahoo Superba/White Group.

Take care and happy knitting.

Patrick Madden.
Toronto, Ontario CANADA

By Patrick Madden

A → Colour A, the Main Colour, Main Yarn, Yarn Feeder A, Background Yarn, Needle Position A or Non-working Position.
Superba: “Yarn Guide” on Single Bed Carriage and Double bed model Back Carriage. Also, Slot “D” on the Second Yarn Guide. The Main Yarn is threaded here.

A/H → Arm Hole

ALT or Alt → Alternate(ly)
Superba: Flow Combs Alternate, Alternate Needle Arrangement or 1x1

Approx → Approximately; an average, a ball park figure, a guesstimate.

atst → At the Same Time: Perform either the same technique or an alternate at this stage of knitting; IE decreasing armhole and then starting neck decreases.

B → Colour B, Contrast Colour, Background Colour, Background Yarn, Needle Position B or working position
Superba: Needle Position No.1, Second Yarn Guide; colour 2

BB → Back Bed; The main bed for Japanese Machines, the secondary bed for Passap.
Superba: Back Bed

Beg → Begin(ning); the start.

BET → Between.

Bind Off → To Remove stitches from machine, same as Cast Off.

BK → Back; IE BK Neck.

BO → Bind Off; same as Cast Off, to remove stitches from machine.

BOLT → Bind Off with Latch Tool, aka Crochet or Slip Stitch Cast Off.
Superba: Casting Off Method 2: page 35 of instruction manual.

C → Contrast, Centre, Colour C, Third Colour, Needle Position C; ie “ move needles in hold to C Position…:
Superba: Needle Position No. 2 stitches behind latches of needles.

C on → Cast On; to start knitting, establish stitches on machine needles.

C off → Cast Off; to remove stitches from machine, same as BO.

Cast On Loosely → One deliberately makes the cast on stitches or loops very loose so that the finished edge will stretched when blocked. Useful for lace or shawls.

CAL/COL → Carriage at Left/Carriage on Left; “With COL, Cast on 35 sts….”

CAR/COR → Carriage at Right/Carriage on Right; “End with COR…”

Carr → Carriage.

CB → Centre Back, the exact centre or vertical line along the garment back. 99% of knit garment pieces are symmetrical in shape, so shaping is usually the same on both sides. This is a reference point when shaping.

CC → Contrast Colour.

CF → Centre Front. See CB.

cm → Centimetre.

cntr → Centre. Or "Center", as spelled in the United States.

Cntr 0 → The exact centre of your needle bed. Usually marked with "0" along the numerical graduated scale printed or engraved on your knitting machine bed.

CO → Cast On; to begin knitting, establish stitches on machine needles.

COBH → Cast On By Hand; just as it says, “COBH using e-wrap method…”

Col → Colour, color.

Con → Contrast.

Cont → Continue(ing).

D → Fourth colour, Holding Position, Needle Position D; IE “Pull all ndls to D pos…”
Superba: Needle Position No. 3, holding position, pg. 11 of instruction book.

DB → Double Bed, two separate beds of needles positioned to face one another and knit intricate stitch combinations.

dbl → Double

dc→ Decrease.

Dec/dec → Decrease; reduce number of stitches or stitch size.

DETT → Double Eye Transfer Tool, for transferring single stitches between needle beds on Double Bed knitting machines.

div → Division, divide, dividing.

DK → Double Knitting;; a yarn weight achieving 22 – 24 stitches per 10cm/4”.

E → E position. Upper Working Position.
Superba: Needle Position No. 3, holding position, pg. 11 of instruction book.

ea → Each.

E/N → Every Needle.

E/R → Every Row.

EON → Every Other Needle; alternate needle selection IE 1x1 rib.

EOR → Every Other Row; alternate rows IE “ alt ndls will Tuck EOR…”

EOS/EOST → Every Other Stitch.

Ev → Every.

e-wrap → A cast on technique done by hand, wrapping each needle selected with yarn as if writing litle "e's".

F/Ft → Front.

FA → Feeder A, also “A Long, Long Way to Run….”

FB → Feeder B, Front Bed; this is the ribber or secondary bed for Japanese machines and the main bed for Passap.
Superba: Front Bed.

FF → Fully Fashioned, full fashion; decrease/increase techniques that take place within the fabric, not directly on the edge, creating a decorative line of shaping.

FNP → First Needle Position.
Superba: Needle Position No. 1.

FNR → Full Needle Rib, Double Rib; double bed stitch where all needles on both beds are selected creating a dense, close fabric.
Superba: Close Rib, pg. 47 of instruction manual.

FI → Fair Isle, aka “Knit-In”. A Single Bed knitting machine technique using two colours knit in the same row to a specific stitch pattern.
Superba: pg. 57 of instruction book. Knit on Single Bed or Back bed for DB Models. Use the 2nd Yarn Guide with special carriage settings.

Fdr 1 or A → Feeder 1, Feeder A. Main Yarn Feeder. The Main Colour is usually threaded in this slot on the carriage.
Superba: “Yarn Guide” on Single Bed Carriage and Double bed model Back Carriage. Also, Slot “D” on the Second Yarn Guide. The Main Yarn is threaded here.

Feeder 2 or B → Secondary Yarn Feeder. The Contrast Colour is usually threaded in this slot on the carriage.
Superba: Slot “E” on the Second Yarn Guide. “Second” yarn is threaded here.

Fig. → Figure; referring to a drawing or diagram, IE “Using the stitch design shown in figure A…”

Foll → Following.

g or gm → Grams, Yarn weight measurement, IE “ Zara is sold in 50g balls, 50 grams = 1 ¾ oz.”

GB or G-Bar → Garter Bar; a tool used for turning stitches over on single bed machines to create “Garter Stitch” fabric.

GC or G-Carr → Garter Carriage; an electric carriage that will automatically knit and reform stitches on single bed Brother/Jones/Knit King machines.
Superba: Garter Carriage/Garter Lace Transfer Carriage.

GLTC → Garter Lace Transfer Carriage. An optioanl accessory for Superba, White, Singer and Phildar knitting machines made in France by Superba. Used for transferring individual or groups of stitches to create combined knit/purl textured stitches and Racked Lace.

H → Hold. To place a specific number of stitches into Holding Position.

HP → Holding Position, referring to the needle position. This is usually position D or E depending on the machine. The needles are brought all the way forward and not selected to knit, which is used for “Short Row” or “Partial Knitting” shaping techniques.
Superba: Holding Needle Position No.3, pg. 11 and pg. 20 of instruction book, WITH the NRB’s or Needle Return Buttons on Carriage set to neutral, see pg. 13 of instruction book. Needles are at their highest position on the needle bed, and the needles do not knit but HOLD the stitches.

H/P → Half Pitch; for double bed knitting machines where needles are selected on both needle beds, and the FB is positioned laterally by half a needle position so the needles do not collide and break.
Superba: Flow Combs Alternate, Intermediary Lever on the FB set at Alt.

HW → Hang Weights.

In(s) → Inches.

Inc/INC → Increase.

K → Knit. Both a noun (the actual stitch) and a verb (Knit 20 rows).

KH → Main Bed, knitting carriage; a term used by Knit King/Jones/Brother machines to describe their single bed knitting machine models, IE KH-260.
Superba: The Single Bed Carriage, The Back Carriage.

KWK → Knit across, wrap, Knit back; an instruction to follow when “partial knitting” or knitting “short rows” shaping technique.)

K Carriage → Knitting Carriage
Superba: The Single Bed Carriage, The Back Carriage.

L or l → Left. Long. Length.

LC → "Left Cross" when producing Cable Stitches.

LHS → Left Hand Side.

lgth → Length.

LPC → Lock Punch Card. This is used to either memorize the first row of the pattern card, or to produce stripes in the knit fabric.
Superba: Pause Row Advance or Program the stitch pattern and begin 1st row, depending on context.

M → Main, Main Colour, Marker.

MB → Main Bed. For Japanese machines, this is the single bed knitting machine. For Passap machines, this is the Front Bed.
Superba: For Single Bed models this is the Main Bed. For Superba Double Bed Models, this is the Back Bed.

MC → Main Colour.

mm → Millimetre. Metric measurement.

MT → Main Tension. The number setting on the stitch size or tension dial. The main tension the garment is knit with.
Superba: Stitch Size (SS), see pg. 12 of instruction manual.

MT -1, -2, -3 → Main Tension Less 1, 2, or 3 number settings. Used for rib settings on Japanese machine patterns.

MT +1, +2, +3 → Main Tension Plus 1, 2, or 3 number settings.

MY → Main Yarn. The yarn used primarily in a garment. Same as MC.

n(s) / ndl → Needle(s).

ndls. → Needles.

NB → Needle Bed.

NRB → Needle Return Button. Found on Superba knitting machine carriages. These control needles in holding position and are used for knitting Fair Isle and Jacquard by selecting needles to knit the 2nd yarn colour.

NWP → Non-working Position. Position A on Japanese knitting machine needle beds. Needles are out of work.
Superba: Non- Working Needle Position No. 0, see pg. 11 of instruction book.

Notch → A yarn marker placed along both sides of a seam to aid in sewing sections together evenly.

Opp. → Opposite.

OWP → Out of Work, Out of Working Position.

oz → Ounce, ounces.

P → Purl. Plain. Place.

Patt(s) → Pattern, patterns.

PC → Punch Card, Provisional Cast On

PK → Partial Knit.

Pl → Plain.

PM → Place Marker.

PN → Place Notch.

PU → Pick Up.

Provisional Cast On → A temporary cast on method. See "WY/RC CO." In machine knitting this usually means with Waste Yarn, aka Auxillary Yarn in your Superba instruciton book. One will then complete a closed cast on immediately following or after the piece is removed from the machine.

R/r → Row, rows.

R/Rt. → Right.

RB → Ribber Bed. Most Japanese machines are sold as single bed knitting machines with a “Ribbing Attachment” or ribber. The ribber can be removed from the knitting machine when not needed. Also found as Rear Bed.
Superba: The Front Bed on Superba Double Bed models. A second bed conversion kit was sold for Superba Single Bed models to convert them to a fixed Double Bed machine. The second bed is not removeable. It is permanently attached.

RC/R.C. → Row counter. Also Ravel Cord. "Right Cross" when producing Cable Stitches.

RH → Right Hand, Rehang.

RHS → Right Hand Side.

RP → Rest Position.

RPc → Release Punch Card.
Superba: Activate Stitch Pattern and begin knitting immediately after programming stitch pattern.

RS → Right Side. Depending on the stitch technique used, the side that will be facing out on your garment.

RT/rt → Right. Rib Tension. The setting of the stitch size dial on Japanese ribbers.
Superba: Front Carriage Stitch Size setting.

RW/rw → Row.

Ravel Cord → Very thin Nylon cord, used for cast on procedures using Waste Yarn (WY). The Ravel Cord is knit between Waste Yarn and the Main Yarn (MY), making the removal of the WY from MY easy.

Rem → Remaining.

Rep/rep/rept → Repeat.

rnds → Rounds. Used when knitting "in the round" or Circular Knitting. In circular knitting, as the completed rounds stack up on one another like a coil, you must mark the beginning and end of a round, and count these completed revolutions in your knitting. On a double bed knitting machine, we would begin knitting with our carriage at the right hand side, thus the start of the round. In setting our carriages to knit circular, we would pass the carriages from right to left and the machine will knit on the front bed only and then moving left to right it will knit on the back bed only, completing one round. Thus, two passes of the carriages equals 1 round.

S → stitch.

SB → Single Bed.
Superba: Selection Box.

SC/sc → Single crochet.

SD → Stitch Dial. For setting stitch size or tension of knit fabric.

SH → Shoulder.

SL/sl → Slip Stitch. The stitch is not knit, the yarn passes in front of the stitch on the purl side and knits the next or corresponding stitch depending on the stitch pattern.
Superba: select stitch key 0 for slip stitch.

SR, SHR, s/r → Short Row. aka Partial Knitting. A shaping technique for shoulders, etc., where one selects only a certain number of your total stitches to knit. The stitches you do not wish to knit are place in "holding" position. On a Superba this is Holding Position No.3. To prevent holes forming between rows, the last needle closest to stitches knitting is wrapped with the main yarn to close any gap that may form.

SS → Stitch Size. The setting number of the tension dial on your carriage(s). Also, Side Seam.
Superba: See pg. 12 of instruction book.

St st → Stocking Stitch, aka Stockinette Stitch.
**The most basic stitch a Single Bed knitting machine can produce. For comparison, in hand knitting it is Garter Stitch (knit every stitch, every row – which is one of the hardest for a knitting machine to produce). In machine knitting, due to the fixed position of the latch hook needles, they always produce Stocking Stitch. The resulting fabric has a definite Knit Stitch side and a definite Purl Stitch side. The Purl side is always facing us when knitting Stocking Stitch on the back or main bed.

Sts → Stitches. Individual needles holding yarn formed in loops.

ST–RS– X’s → Stitches-Rows-Times. Garment shaping instruction formula, indicating the number of stitches one would inc/dec, the number of rows between and the number of times to repeat this, IE. 2-8-5 would read as Decrease 2 stitches every 8th row, 5 times. Used frequently in Japanese garment patterns.

sk → Slip Knot: A secure and discreet knot which loops over itself and tightens to look like any other stitch. Used when casting on by hand.

T → Tension.

TD → Tension Dial.
Superba: Stitch Size Dial.

TEN → Tension.

tog → Together, ie K2tog = Knit two stitches together.

TR → Turning Row, Transfer

Trans → Transfer. To move stitches, needle to needle on the same or alternating beds.

tt → Transfer tool. Tappet tool (see latch tool.)

UWP → Upper Working Position. On Japanese machines this is either needle position C, D, or E, depending on the context.
Superba: Working Position No. 2 or Holding Position No.3

W → Work. Wide. Width.

wd → Wide. Width.

WP → Working Position.

WS/ws → Wrong Side.

Wt/Wts. → Weights.

WY → Wast Yarn. Used in provisional cast on methods and closed cast on methods. One establishes stitches and a few rows of knitting before knitting with or casting on with Main Yarn. Superba: your instruction manual refers to WY as “Auxillary Yarn”. See pg. 31, “Closed Casting-On in Stocking Stitch by Hand”.

wy/rc co → Waste Yarn & Ravel Cord Cast On. Indicates that a provisional cast on is to be used beginning with rows of waste yarn, seperated by one row of ravel cord. One can then complete a closed cast on (usually by hand) or begin knitting with main yarn and return later to complete this edge.

X → Times. A multiple of…

YF → Yarn Feeder.
Superba: Yarn Guide.

YM → Yarn Marker. (See PM and Notch).

Patrick Madden.
Toronto, Ontario CANADA


Superba ~ Singer ~ White ~ Phildar Hobby Knitting Machines: 9mm and 5mm Plastic Single Bed Hobby Models


The French Knitting Machine manufacturer S.I.T./Superba, which produced the Superba, Singer, White and Phildar brands of home knitting machine was known for it's metal and aluminum Double Bed model knitting machines.

They also produced a range of 9mm Gauge Hobby Machines.

These were sold as the following.

From Superba: The S9.

The Hobby Knitters are single bed knitting machines that are made of a light weight plastic frame. They use metal needles spaced 9mm apart allowing them to knit hand knitting yarns that range from Double Knitting or DK weight, Worsted Weight and Chunky Weight.
In hand knitting terms, the Hobby Knitter models will knit yarns that work up on a US#6/4mm through a US#10/6mm.

These are the most basic model of machine as they only knit stocking stitch and there is no yarn tension mast. The carriage is actually an Intarsia carriage. You can see an Intarsia Carriage for a 5mm gauge machine compared with the 9mm S9 carriage in the photo above. The S9 and Easy Knitter models have 115 needles and the Big Phil 123 or 126. Not a huge difference.

Being a plastic bed machine makes them very light weight and portable. Hence the term "hobby" knitter.

My model, the White Easy Knitter, is shown below. You just clamp it to a table, select the needles you want to knit with, slide the carriage across and the needles align in positon #2 with the latches open.

Then, with your yarn resting on the floor by your feet, you lay the yarn across the needles and pass the carriage across to complete one row of Stocking Stitch.

A rather straight forward process and of course one can do many hand manipulated stitches like cables, lace, tuck and slip and multi-coloured Intarsia. These are excellent machines for knitting fabric to be felted.

There is no ribber or second bed of needles for these models so any Knit ~ Purl stitch combinations must be hand manipulated. Singer in the UK did make the attempt at a second bed of needles but from what I've read it was not worth the effort.

In these photos I am working with two qualities of Lorna's Laces Mohair in Pink Blossom:
  • a Chunky Weight singles (when I say "singles" I mean that it is one thick stand of roving not plied)
  • Grace, a medium bouclé which knits on a #US10 or 6mm hand knitting needle.
I started with a Waste Yarn/Ravel Cord cast on - always! Then I proceeded with a Double E-Wrap as the finished cast on in the Chunky Mohair. I used stitch size 12 to maximize the length and ensure a nice drape. The hobby knitter made very light work of this and, as I was alternating single rows of each quality, I simply had to remove the carriage and attach it at the opposite end every third row. No big deal. I used two medium weights and claw weights for the edge stitches.

I finished with a latch tool bind off, nice a loose with my tension as this piece of fabric was to be blocked after knitting and I needed the ends to have some s-t-r-e-t-c-h.
I was pleased with the pretty fabric the combination of yarn weights produced and as a result I had just enough yarn to knit my desired length. Just enough!! The bouclé ran out first but I'll use the remaining chunky mohair to sew up the side seams.
After removing the knitted fabric from the machine I immerse it in a sink with WARM, tepid water. Not hot, not cold. I do not want to felt my fabric. Just condition it.

To do so I add about 3 tablespoons of a wool wash called Eucalan. This is a NO-RINSE wool wash (very low sudsing - perfect for pets as well!) made with Eucalyptus and Lanolin. The best thing for knits of any kind and other fine garments that you want to wash by hand. Remember - it's no rinse - which saves on water making this a very eco-friendly product.

I mix the Eucalan into the water with my hand to make sure it's disolved then I immerse the fabric, turning it a few times until it has absorbed the water. Top up the WARM water level if necessary. Then just leave it for 20 minutes.

In the photo below I got carried away with swirling the water - so try to mix the fabric wash with the water gently.

Come back, drain the water and squeeze out as much water as possible. DO NOT WRING AND TWIST LIKE A TOWEL. You will damage the fibres and possibly felt the material it if it's wool. If you have a lingerie bag, mesh bag or pillow case, use one. It will support the weight of the knit fabric and prevent stretching when you remove the piece from the sink.

Remove the fabric from the sink and grabbing a plush terry bath towel, we will now roll the knit fabric in the towel to remove the excess water.

What about the cookie you promised me?

Ok, lay the towel down then your knit fabric on top of this. The knitting will be about the same width as it was when it came off the machine. But now, on the lower edge, you can see I'm starting to block it out. I'm lightly stretching the rectangle to get it as close to it's finished size as possible. I do this all the way across and adjust it as I work my way up the fabric.

Next you will fold the lower edge of the towel up and over the top of the fabric.
Then begin to roll the towel into a tube.
Press firmly across the roll with the palms of your hands.
Continue to roll and press.

When you are finished, unroll the towel and tug the knit into a loose approximation of a square and hope for the best...or you can block it on a blocking/cutting board to an exact shape using pins. I would choose the latter.

These blocking/cutting boards are marked with a large grid in inches and centimetres and they last for ever. The one pictured is as old as the hills but still does the trick. I do have 2 others. They retail for about $15 and fold up for easy storage.
Oh, one more thing. Blocking wires. Yes, buy them, use them, wonderful. Especially for finer knits like those on the 5mm gauge machines. There is a great company here in Toronto (Mississauga actually) that sell them in all kinds of lengths. More on these later.
Alrighty then...I begin by blocking out the corners. See the huge pins. They are called t-pins for those not in the know. Perfect for this task vs. teensy sewing pins.

Then divide the side sections in half, then in four and so on, evenly distributing the fabric as best you can.

I pin at about a 1" or 2.5cm interval and readjusting the fabric and pins will be necessary. You can see from the photo below how much the fabic wants to contract. It is still slightly damp and therefore maleable.

Once I've completed pinning I leave it to dry overnight. I'll update you with the finished shrug in a week or so. This fabric stayed nice and flat and hardly contracted when I removed the pins. A 2x2 rib I knit in a Silk-Mohair obviously did but then that's the nature of the stitch.

Please check out the new "LINKS" I've put up on the sidebar. In the event you have not visited - do so. A fabulous on-line knitting magazine from the knitting capital of the world - TORONTO. Do visit Interweave Knits and Berroco for their great patterns. Check out the schematics on the Berroco site. Very cool. And of course go to to order yarn and fabulous accessories.

Kind Regards,
Patrick Madden.
Toronto, Ontario CANADA


Superba Knitting Machines: The "A" Card Stitches For Light Scanning Selection Box Models

Superba Knitting Machine models that have a Light Scanning Selection Box can produce simple stitch patterns without having to insert a Mylar Programme Card.

These are known as the "A-Card" Stitches.

The various brand models include the Superba S48:

The Singer 2330 series, which come in many colours:

The White 1602 (sold only in North America):

The PhildarMatic (sold only in France + Belgium):

These are the simplest of patterns to produce because they utilize a 1x1 needle selection.

Different subtle stitch effects are created by changing the position of the switches on the control panel of the Selection Box, and by selecting various stitch keys.

Simple stitch patterns can be created for all Single Bed and Double Bed Stitch techniques your Light Scanning Model is capable of working.

The stitch techniques I used when working the A-Card Stitches are Single Bed Tuck, Slip and Weave Effect. 

Learning to programme these 1x1 Stitch Patterns is a good way to learn the various stitch techniques your Light Scanning Model is capable of creating.

Also, sometimes when knitting, simple is best. It is one thing to be able to create large all over Jacquard and Fair Isle stitch patterns, but at the end of the day the question begs to be asked: Would you wear that?

The benefit of using such simple stitches is the subtle textures they create, especially when knitting Tuck and Slip Stitch.

These simple A-Card Stitches are perfect for turning a yarn that you may have bought and find to be too thin when knit up on it's own in Stocking Stich, into a lovely textured fabric, perfect for sweaters or a blanket simply by working the yarn in a denser 1x1 Slip Stitch effect.

I will show you in this tutorial how I used a fine Arcylic yarn as the "Ground Yarn" component for the Knit Weave technique. It worked perfectly, forming the frame work for weaving in all these left over balls of Black and Grey Yarns from hand knitting projects. 

Setting Up The Machine For A-Card Stitches.

I'll begin by showing you how to attach the Selection Box.

The Light Scanning Selection Box, when not used should be stor

The Superba Light Scanning Selection Box model knitting machines can produce simple "every-other-needle" stitch patterns without having to insert a Programme Card. This ability is built into all S.I.T./Superba models with electronic needle selection.

For the light scanning model these are known as the A-Card Stitches, and named thusly because the Stitch Patterns are listed A1 through A19.

Following the instructions on the programming cards for yarn weight, carriage settings, accessories and Selection Box switch settings, you can achieve 18 various stitch techniques using the basic 1x1 needle arrangement, including Single Bed Fair Isle, Weave Technique, Jacquard and Double Bed Tuck. The photo below shows stitch pattern A7, which is a Single Bed Tuck Stitch knit in Clea Cotton. This is shown in the programming "HOW TO" below.

**For persons new to Superba Machines: remember that all electronic stitch patterning takes place on the Back Needle Bed. Not the front. **

I have selected 3 stitch patterns for a close-up view so you can see the differences in proramming and machine settings.

A1 is a Weave Technique stitch. How do I know? Because, if we read the legend from Left to Right, we have a smaple photo, next column is the Suggested Yarn Weight which lists 2 weights. Weave Technique knits with a finer "ground" or base yarn and a thicker yarn is woven between the stitches. Next to that is the schematic for the Carriage(s) and Settings which is only showing 1 carriage in use. If this was a stitch technique requiring a double bed model, such as A12, then you would see the symbol of two carriages and the appropriate Stitch Keys to select.

Next to the carriage setting is the accessory information: in this case Weaving Brushes. That is the giveaway right there. Finally on the far right we have the Selection Box setting switches.

**A simple way to quickly remember the settings (you see this in old knitting magazines) is that there are 5 swithces, 4 with three positions. So the setting for A1 is "Centre-Up-Centre-Up-Up".**

The next photos show A2, which is a Slip stitch knit on the Single Bed or Back Bed and A5 is a Single Bed Fair Isle technique. The complete cards are below with copies of all 18 stitch settings .

Quick Programming the Selection Box using these stitches is is a handy way to test new yarn to see how it knits up on the single and double beds without having to insert and program a mylar Programme Card.

Also, if the yarn you have is on the thin side but you still want to knit with it, I suggest using stitch patterns A2 and A3 which are single bed Slip Stitch techniques and A4, single bed Tuck stitch. These will bulk up your fabric nicely, and depending on the stitch size. produce some interesting fabric densities.


Read my instructions first as the steps for programming the Selection Box for A-CARD stitches vary slightly from using the Programme Cards.

Then thread up your machine and try them all, in order, and keep these samples in a binder with the A-Card. This way you will have a reference for what kind of fabric each produces. This is a very good way to introduce yourself to the various stitch techniques a Superba can produce.

My example in these instructions uses stitch pattern A7, which is a Single Bed Tuck Stitch. The carriage is set with both the Tuck and Circular keys selected. I used Clea Cotton for this sample which is a 4-ply (gauge of 28-30 stitches/4") hand knitting and crochet cotton.

Before connecting to a power source make sure the back bed carriage is at the right hand side. Next you want to select a number of needles to knit with; ie. 40. So push 20 needles to the left of centre "0" on the graduated scale and 20 to the right to position No.1.
Please set the Selection Box switches to the following positions:

Various settings of these Selection Box switches will produce different effects: For A7, the switch settings are "Centre-Up-Centre-Up" - and "Down" for now, simply because the far right switch is the On/Off switch and we have not turned the box on.
Set the Programme Changer to the lower position - the Geometric setting. By doing so before the power is turned on indicates to the Microcontroller that no Mylar stich pattern sheet will be used and it will automatically charge the needle bed for a basic Geometric Programme using a 1x1 needle selection.

Next you can plug the Selection Box into a power source. I suggest you connect it to an extension cord with a power surge protector built in to protect the electronics.

Then switch on the Selection Box by moving the switch on the far right to it's upper position. You will see the Light Scanner light up and the Selection Box will issue a beep.

You then want to start sliding the Cursor on the back bed of the knitting machine and as you move the Cursor on the machine . . .

the Cursor Indicator on the Selection Box should be moving at the same time. You want the White Reference Mark to be in the first square on the left-hand side on the indicator.
The photo above captures a picture of the Cursor Reference Mark - it is the white square, the photo below indicates it should be all the way to the left in the first square. This aligns the Selection Box Cursor Indicator with the Cursor on the back needle bed.

Next we switch the Programme Changer to neutral position. This locks the Selection Box Cursor into position.

Now we need to tell the Selection Box which is the first needle or starting point of our stitch pattern. For Superba machines the default is always Needle No. 1 to the left of centre "0".
So bring the centre of the Cursor on the back bed directly opposite the first needle to the left of centre "0" on the graduated scale.

Now set the Programme Changer back to the Geometric or lower setting.

Finally, bring the Cursor on the back bed to the same side as the carriage and lock it into place.

On your back knitting carriage select the Tuck & Cirular Key together, thread the carriage and commence knitting your sample or garment.
Tuck & Circular stitches knitting cams selected together produce the fabric shown below.

If your Selection Box is damaged and will not scan a Mylar Programme Card, there may be a good chance that it will still knit these most basic of A-CARD stitches. Try it out. You don't need to thread the machine to test it. Simply follow the programming steps and pass the carriage back and forth across the selected needles and watch to see that every-other-needle is being selected row by row. If they do then you are in luck.

Patrick Madden.
Toronto, Ontario CANADA